Sustain pedal requires a new press to shut off sustain?
I've used the same sustain pedal for years on an old keyboard, and just bought a new keyboard. It always worked fine: When I pressed the sustain pedal, the sound sustained. When I released the pedal, the sustain died away.
Now, when I press the sustain pedal, the sound sustains, but continues to sustain after I release the pedal. I have to press the pedal down all the way to 127 again to get it to cut off. It's not a polarity problem. I suspect I've done something basically wrong, somewhere.
I have the sustain pedal plugged into the sustain jack.
It's the only pedal.
I have the jack assigned to CC 64 and the software (Cubase) is set to receive sustain on CC 64.
I have the MSB set to 127.
I have the LSB set to 0.
Re: Sustain pedal requires a new press to shut off sustain?
Hate to respond to my own message, but in the interest of having this forum be a source of information about such things, I thought I should post that I've resolved the problem by using a different pedal:
Using an M-Audio Keystation Pro 88, I was unable to get a VFP1 pedal to work by pushing the polarity switch on the bottom, or by turning on the keyboard with the pedal pressed down in either polarity. I instead was able to get the proper pedal response by using an older, standard Ensoniq pedal, from a EPS-16+, which worked correctly as soon as I plugged it in.
M-Audio, in early advertisements for this keyboard, said that it required an M-Audio pedal. Later ads seem to leave that out, and the manual for the keyboard says that it will adjust to whatever pedal one has. I believe the manual means that there are apparently more pedals out there than one might assume (not just Roland vrs Yamaha), and it will detect the correct polarity if one has the correct pedal.
M-Audio responded promptly to my request for help, but at first only suggested a manual reset to the default parameters. Didn't work.
More generally, the keyboard and pedal work well: the default velocity setting is linear, and requires adjusting. Because of all of the buttons and knobs, I'd hate to sit down and evaluate this keyboard at a large music store where hundreds of people have sat down and made adjustments. The action is fine for my purposes (piano), but I did have to make adjustments to the sample libraries so they respond as I want. My own initial impression, pressing down keys, was that the action was a little spongy. This is not the impression I have after adjusting the velocity curve and the sample libraries: it feels like a real piano, but NOT like a NEW piano. Not your grandmother's old beat up upright either. Somewhere in between, which feels good to me. (Why did your grandmother beat up that piano? It was just sitting there minding its own business.)
But now that the pedal is working, I can get back to programming this keyboard. So many possibilites:
Knobs or sliders for amp AHDSR, for filter, for resonance, for filter to velocity settings, for anything your software can do.
Buttons for the transport bar, or for choosing an instrument. Very nice: Push a button to record, to stop, to rewind, to play, etc.
Buttons, in Cubase, at least, using the Generic Remote thing, for saving the file or opening a new one or starting a new track. (I highly recommend using the Generic Remote settings instead of tryng to set things up with the enclosed software. Much cleaner, to me, and you can see the settings in Cusbase instead of having to load up Enigma and send settings back and forth.) You can just make the adjustments in the Generic Remote settings, BE SURE TO SAVE THEM using Export, and then save the entire file as your default file, so all of the settings load whenever you run CUbase. Very clean once you have it working.